The pre-dawn air was crisp as we began our eight-day journey through Colombia's Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the world's highest coastal mountain range. Our expedition would take us from the cloud forests of El Dorado to the coastal scrublands of Riohacha, working with an extraordinary team of local guides who would reveal both the region's incredible biodiversity and rich cultural heritage.

Our Guide Team

Our journey would unfold across eight immersive days and five distinct locations, each with its own specialist guide. At El Dorado Reserve, we would spend three full days with David, a cloud forest expert who knows every trail and endemic species. In Minca, another David would guide us through two days in the transitional forests. Dagoberto Rudas (@dago_rdg) would lead us through two days exploring Tayrona's diverse habitats. Martin would facilitate our cultural exchange with the Kogi people, and finally, Yeferson Guale Epiayu from the Wayuu community of Kalekalemana (@kalekalemana1921) would guide our final day searching for the Cardinal Guajiro in Riohacha. This itinerary is available as part of our AVES Adventure Tours program.

Day 1-3: El Dorado Cloud Forest Immersion

Our expedition began with three full days in the misty cloud forests of El Dorado Reserve, where David's intimate knowledge of the endemic species proved invaluable. The extended stay allowed us to explore different trail systems at various times of day, maximizing our chances with the region's most elusive endemics. Day one focused on the main trails and common species, day two took us to remote areas for specialized endemics, and day three provided flexibility for return visits to promising locations and photography opportunities.

Day 4-5: Minca Transitional Zone Deep Dive

Our two days in Minca allowed for thorough exploration of the transitional zone between cloud forest and dry forest. The first day focused on the higher elevation trails where cloud forest species overlap with mid-elevation specialists. The second day took us to lower elevations and different habitat types, creating a comprehensive understanding of this remarkable ecological gradient. The extended time here proved crucial for locating mixed-species flocks and understanding seasonal bird movements.

Day 6-7: Tayrona National Park & Kogi Cultural Exchange

Two full days with Dagoberto in Tayrona's diverse habitats provided unparalleled access to this complex ecosystem. Day six focused on the coastal forests and their specialized avifauna, while day seven took us inland to valleys and higher elevations. The extended time allowed for both intensive birding and meaningful cultural exchange with the Kogi people, as Martin facilitated our respectful encounter and learning about traditional ecological knowledge.

Day 8: Riohacha - Cardinal Guajiro Finale

Our final day brought us to the coastal scrublands around Riohacha, where Yeferson's ancestral knowledge of the Wayuu territory would prove essential for finding the endemic Vermilion Cardinal. The dry forests and thorny scrublands of this region represent a completely different ecosystem from the cloud forests where we began.

Yeferson's knowledge of bird behavior, passed down through generations of Wayuu tradition, proved invaluable. He could predict bird movements by reading subtle changes in wind patterns and vegetation, skills that no field guide could teach. His understanding of the Cardinal Guajiro's habits—when it feeds, where it nests, how it responds to seasonal changes—came from a lifetime of observation rooted in cultural connection to the land.

Red-lored Amazons in their Sierra Nevada habitat

The Vermilion Cardinal, known locally as Cardinal Guajiro, represents one of Colombia's most striking endemic species. Found only in the dry forests and scrublands of the Caribbean coast, this brilliant red bird has become a symbol of the region's unique biodiversity.

Our search began in the early morning hours when the cardinals are most active. Dagoberto led us through a network of trails known only to local communities, paths that wind through thorny scrub and cacti-dotted landscapes that most tourists never see.

The moment came just as the sun crested the mountains. A flash of brilliant red caught our attention—there, perched on a flowering Guaiacum officinale tree, was a male Cardinal Guajiro in perfect morning light. The bird's crimson plumage seemed to glow against the pale yellow flowers, creating a scene that epitomized the magic of Colombian birding.

Encounter with the Blue-billed Curassow

Our second day brought us deeper into the cloud forests of the Sierra Nevada, where Dagoberto promised us an encounter with one of Colombia's most elusive birds: the Blue-billed Curassow (Crax alberti). This critically endangered species, endemic to Colombia, represents the ultimate prize for any serious birder visiting the region.

The search required patience and respect for Kogi protocols. We were entering territories considered sacred, where every step required permission from traditional authorities. The Kogi understanding of forest ecology guided our approach—they knew exactly where the curassows would be feeding on fallen fruits in the early morning.

Emerald Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus prasinus)

Cloud forest specialist of the Sierra Nevada

The moment we spotted the curassow was electric. This magnificent bird, with its distinctive blue bill and imposing presence, emerged from the understory like a prehistoric apparition. Watching it forage through the leaf litter, completely unaware of our presence, felt like witnessing a piece of Colombia's natural heritage that few people ever experience.

Beyond Birding: Cultural Exchange

What made this expedition truly special wasn't just the remarkable bird sightings—it was the cultural exchange that occurred throughout our journey. Sharing meals with Wayuu families, learning about traditional ecological calendars from Kogi elders, and understanding how indigenous communities view their role as guardians of biodiversity added profound depth to our birding experience. These cultural connections are a cornerstone of our indigenous partnership programs.

Yeferson shared stories of how his grandmother could predict weather patterns by observing bird behavior, knowledge that proved remarkably accurate during our expedition. When he pointed out subtle changes in hummingbird activity that indicated an approaching weather front, we witnessed traditional ecological knowledge in action.

These interactions reminded us that birding in indigenous territories isn't just about adding species to our lists—it's about understanding the complex relationships between people, birds, and landscapes that have evolved over millennia.

Blue-headed Parrot in the forest canopy

Conservation Through Community Partnership

Our expedition highlighted the critical importance of community-based conservation. The Kogi and Wayuu peoples have protected these forests for generations, not through formal conservation programs, but through cultural practices that recognize the intrinsic value of biodiversity.

Working with guides like Yeferson and Dagoberto ensures that tourism revenue directly benefits local communities while providing economic incentives for habitat protection. This model demonstrates how responsible birding tourism can support both conservation goals and indigenous rights. For couples seeking a more intimate experience of these partnerships, our AVES Souls retreats offer a perfect balance of birding and cultural immersion.

Reflections on Responsible Birding

As we descended from the Sierra Nevada, our cameras full of images and our notebooks filled with observations, we carried with us something more valuable than any photograph: a deeper understanding of what it means to be a responsible birder in indigenous territories.

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta isn't just a birding destination—it's a living landscape where culture and nature intertwine in ways that challenge our conventional understanding of conservation. Our guides didn't just show us birds; they showed us a different way of seeing the world, one where humans and nature exist in respectful partnership.

For birders considering a visit to this remarkable region, remember that you're not just entering a national park or protected area—you're entering someone's home, someone's sacred space. Approach with respect, travel with indigenous guides, and understand that the most meaningful birding experiences often come not from the species we see, but from the people who help us see them.